Food Reviews and Related Observations

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Review: Brooklyn Lager

As I raised my paper fluoride cup full of Brooklyn Lager to my lips, I was ready for disappointment. The rep who administered my sample at the liquor store had served it first in a line-up of five from the same company, implying that he thought it had the least dramatic flavor. As it turned out, he had been severely mistaken. Like myself and so many other beer lovers, my server had subconsciously written lager off as a designation for beer-like swill, distilled from rice and boxed in 30 packs. Brooklyn's inspired brew was an exhilarating repudiation of this tired cliche.

Most microbrewed American beers are ales, which utilize a type of yeast that floats to the surface of the pre-beer concoction. The yeast traps the developing flavors underneath the surface of the liquid, encouraging the development of rich and complex flavors. By contrast, lagers are made with yeast that sinks to the bottom of the mixture. Thus, they are usually associated with beers that are lighter in color, flavor, and sophistication, such as the pilsners that dominate grocery store refrigerators.

However, Brooklyn Brewery's lager endeavors to take the hop-heavy mentality of American pale ales and E.S.B.'s and apply it to bottom-fermenting yeast. The result is a refreshing take on the two brewing traditions that leaves drinkers with the best of both worlds. On one hand, the punchy, dry, and floral taste of cascade hops comes through with remarkable audacity. Indeed, Brooklyn's own pale ale tastes mild by comparison. However, in the spirit of a lager, the brew is without the malty viscosity that characterizes many new American ales. The lager's crisp, dry-hopped finish is a nice departure from microbrew creations that more closely resemble porridge than beer.

A six pack of Brooklyn Lager is a steal at 6 or 7 bucks. You can also snag one at Farm's downstairs whiskey bar for a mere 2.25; after a glass of 100 proof bourbon, it should prove a relief.

1 comment:

monkeyBite said...

i am all about lager beer. as far as i'm concerned, hops are a preservative, and so they shouldn't be overused. however, i still like to taste what I’m drinking – this brew sounds like my kind stuff…g