Food Reviews and Related Observations

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Review: Dagoba Xocolatl Chocolate

The market for gourmet chocolate has grown more than 10% annually during the past 5 years. As a result, alternative grocery stores have been flooded with new chocolate bars of both domestic and European origin. Extravagantly marketed and costing as much as 5 or 6 dollars a piece, many such bars seem to offer more bark than bite. Frederick Schilling, an accomplished chef and the founder of Dagoba Chocolate, crafts extraordinary chocolates that are a notable exception to the underwhelming masses.

Perhaps the boldest of Schilling's adventurous creations is the Xocolatl (zoh-koh-la-tl) bar, presumably named for the cacao-based, Aztec beverage that was the predecessor to chocolate. The bar is based on an intense, 74% cacao dark chocolate. However, it also includes numerous unconventional additions that relate both to the bar's precolonial theme and contribute rewardingly to its rich flavor. Most prominently, the Xocolatl contains a substantial amount of chili. Although the concept of a spicy chocolate bar might sound like a gimmick, the result is fantastic. The earthy flavor of the chili blends perfectly with the bitter taste of the cacao and lights up the entire palate. Even the tinest bite off the bar provides a suitably volcanic eruption of taste.

The bar contains two additional ingredients that offset the sweetness of the chocolate and help to develop its robust flavor. Cacao nibs, roasted beans that are removed from their husks and crumbled, are sparsely distributed throughout and contribute an occasional crunch. Maca, a Peruvian root vegetable reminiscent of radish (and which is said to enhance the libido), is also listed among the ingredients. It has a nutty, buttery flavor that rounds out the rest of the bar well.

In addition to tasting fantastic, Dagoba's Xocolatl chocolate bar is fully organic. More information about the company's impressive commitment to sustainability is available at their website. The bar retails for 3 dollars online.

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